Introduction

Since I first published this piece, it has stayed in the top 5 Versus articles, so clearly it’s a comparison people are interested in. And with all the work Fuji have been doing to the firmware of the X-T1 and X-E2, it’s in pretty serious need of an overhaul.

When the X-T10 was announced, it had major handling advantages over every other camera Fuji had released up to that point, including the flagship DSLR-style body it hailed after, the X-T1. That was quick to change, but the X-E2 still lagged behind pretty severely in key areas like autofocus where Fuji’s “New Auto Focus System” was conspicuously absent. It was starting to look like the X-E2 had reached end of life status on firmware upgrades, despite Fuji themselves announcing publicly we’d see another update.

Fuji’s X-E2S announcement in January of 2016 likely had X-E2 owners worried that what Fuji actually meant was an overall body revision to bring the X-E2 in line with the rest of the family. Fortunately, Fuji also announced Firmware Ver.4.00 for the X-E2, which makes it functionally on par with the X-E2S. This firmware update has huge implications on how this comparison shakes out. Let’s get into it.

Please note: This piece was written with the following firmware versions: X-T10 Ver1.20, X-T1 Ver4.30, X-E2 Ver4.00.

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Performance

Any camera that has “XT” as the first initials of its name is going to have a lot to live up to. The X-T1 blew away all preceding cameras, and even after Fuji played kaizen-catch-up with the X-E2’s firmware, the X-T1 remains the camera to own if performance is paramount. The X-T10 lives up to its name in almost every way, with the one exception being Continuous shooting where the X-T10 slows down quite a bit earlier than the X-T1.

Autofocus

Fuji was wise to announce the fourth firmware version of the X-T1 ahead of the X-T10’s announcement. I could just imagine the uproar if the features found in “The New Autofocus System” didn’t make their way to the X-T1. Fortunately, they did, so we were able to keep our pitchforks and torches safely stowed.

The X-E2 Makes a Comeback

Until the X-E2 got its firmware update, this portion of the review was just a straight-up loss for the X-E2. Now, all three of these cameras come packed with AF goodness that early adopters of the Fuji system had been clamouring for. Multi-Point AF, Zone and Wide Tracking, real Continuous AF, it’s all available now on all three cameras, including a camera that was released in 2013. That in itself is pretty remarkable.

Here’s a little bit about each of these features for first-time purchasers, and those considering an upgrade:

Multi-Point AF
I had forgotten how much I missed this feature. It’s been a few years since I sold my D700, but even the D300 I had before it had this capability. Essentially when a Zone is set, and Single Focus Mode selected (the camera acquires and maintains focus once until the focus is explicitly acquired again or a picture is taken), the camera will intelligently select what it thinks should be in focus, or, in very low light, grab onto whatever is most contrasty. The nicest thing about it is the camera will actually show you what it has focused on, by way of green illuminated focus points.

Wide/Tracking
Pretty much the same as above, except the camera looks at the entire frame as opposed to a user-selected Zone. This setting is more automated, but also more likely to yield unexpected, or even undesirable results.

Continuous Autofocus
As mentioned in my X-T1 review, I mostly wouldn’t have bothered with Continuous AF on the X-E2 before Firmware Ver.4.00. The X-T1 blew it out of the water then, but the gap has narrowed considerably, if not entirely. With Zone and Wide Tracking, you can watch as the camera acquires focus as opposed to hoping for the best, and then getting frustrated when the “Multi” AF Mode grabs onto the wrong thing.

Continuous Shooting

This is one area where the X-T1 still rules the roost. As evidenced by the audio clips below, the X-T1 will let you shoot fast for much, much longer. This comes down to buffer size first, and card speed second. I personally have yet to bother with UHS-II cards, so the Continuous Shooting of the X-T1 could be even greater as neither of the other cameras are UHS-II compatible.

Low Light

In testing the single-point focus acquisition success rate in low light with both the 35mm f/1.4 and 16-55mm f/2.8, I noticed little, if any difference between the X-T10, X-T1, and now the X-E2(S).

Size & Weight

If size and weight are crucial, the X-T10 will bring the overall weight of your kit down about 60g as compared to the X-T1, and take up even less space in a bag. Incredibly—and I actually re-weighed the cameras here—the X-E2(S) is even lighter than the X-T10. I suppose a good chunk of that weight can be chalked up to the tilty screen, but it’s especially surprising when the size of both cameras are accounted for. The X-T10 is small, and could be too small for some hands. I prefer holding either of the other cameras.

Here’s how the weight stacks up in chart form. These figures include a battery, SD card, and body cap.

Based on Fuji’s specifications, here’s how the size of the cameras relate to one another.

I created this diagram by using detailed paths of the camera outlines, then equalizing the sizes based on the height specification provided by Fuji, since I can’t be sure if their horizontal measurement accounts for the strap eyelets. This has resulted in a bit of a discrepancy I’m not quite sure how to rationalize; the width of the X-T1 and X-E2(S) should be identical, but either the main body of the X-E2 appears slightly wider than the X-T1, or the body plus strap eyelets of the X-T1 is wider than that of the X-E2(S). The important thing is how much smaller the X-T10 is though.

Handling

As ever, my own biases may bleed in here a little, but I’ll try to keep things as objective as possible, and consider alternate preferences.

Build

I’d put the overall build of the X-T10 somewhere between the X-T1 and X-E2(S). It’s not nearly as solid has the X-T1, but it has less plastic faux rubber than the X-E2(S) does. No all-magnesium chassis here either. Just the top and bottom plates like the X-E cameras. Things like the battery door and connector cover are also of X-E quality. The connector cover in particular gives the X-T10’s lack of weather sealing away.

Weather Sealing

Speaking of weather sealing, the X-T1 has it, the others don’t. I’ve mentioned before that I think Fuji’s recommended operating temperatures for their non-weather sealed bodies are a bit too conservative, particularly if care is taken when transitioning between temperature extremes, but I’m always sure to keep them out of heavier rain and snowfall.

Buttons, Dials, and Layout

If you like the X-T1, you’ll like the layout of the X-T10. There is very little that’s different. Of note, the View Mode button is on the angled rear face of the viewfinder as opposed to the side. It’s a little easier to get at, but not as good a button.

Because of the decrease in size, the rear dial can get in the way a little bit more than on either the X-T1 or X-E2(S) with the grip you’re used to having. As time’s gone on, I’ve adapted my grip when using smaller lenses to have my thumb wedged right up against the thumb rest. With larger lenses, you’ll likely need a second hand to cradle the lens. To my thumb, the X-E2(S) definitely has the best rear dial. It’s the easiest to turn and clicks the best.

The thumb grip also looks a little bolted on, and as though it could come away from the body after heavy use. I don’t know what the cost implications are, but I would have liked that entire back panel surrounding the D-pad to have been the same real rubber material as the thumb grip is.

We’re back to a single compartment for both the battery and the SD card. I wonder if this is a sign of things to come. Personally, I check the batter compartment when trying to access the SD card on my X-T1 every damn time so I wouldn’t mind Fuji moving everything to the same place.
The diopter adjustment dial is more like the one found on the X-E2(S).

Last, the diopter adjustment dial is more like the one found on the X-E2, the Function button tucked between the Exposure Compensation and Shutter Speed dials on the X-T1 is found in the bottom right of the X-T10, and the dedicated Function button on the front of the X-T1 is nowhere to be found.

Design

Beyond that, it’s really just minor tweaks. There seems to have been a little more thought and care put in the placement of things, For instance, the front dial ad AF assist lamp now sit vertically centred within the top plate as opposed to on the edge or straddling both the top plate and main body as they are on the X-T1. The X-T10 feels more like the X30, which is nice.

D-pad

Apart from accidentally hitting the bottom button on occasion when gripping the camera,(fn) this is the most usable D-pad yet. There’s more of a concave contour from the edges of the directions buttons in towards the middle button as opposed to the small ridge on the X-T1. This makes the X-T10’s D-pad the easiest to navigate without looking at it. I still like the X-E2’s D-pad more than the X-T1’s, and because it stays out the way better, it might take top prize for me.

View Mode

This is my biggest beef with the X-E2. With EVF Only or EVF Only + Eye Sensor selected, image playback happens in the viewfinder too. Both the X-T10 and X-T1 have it right, and so does every other X-Series camera. Poor lonely X-E2.

Function Buttons

This would be a wash between the X-T10 and X-T1 if it weren’t for the missing Function button on the front of the X-T10. Otherwise, all function buttons are fully customizable. For some reason, the left and right buttons on the D-pad of the X-E2 are still inexplicably useless outside of AF point selection and menu navigation.

A Note About S

The X-E2 and X-E2S are functionally identical provided the X-E2’s firmware has been upgraded. So what’s the difference? The S does have a slightly improved grip. Fuji also removed the labels from the D-Pad function buttons and changed the label on the lowest button to the left of the LCD, but otherwise, their handling is identical.

Electronic Viewfinder

All 3 of these cameras have the exact same EVF as far as hardware is concerned. The X-T10 and X-E2 share the very similar magnifications according to the spec sheets. The X-T1 is still the EVF King thanks to its 0.77x magnification, but as far as lag and refresh rate go, in my testing it’s an extremely close call, if not a 3-way tie.

On the software side of things, the X-T1 and X-T10 offer viewfinder rotation, while the X-E2 does not. The same applies to the updated UI. And finally, X-T1’s “DUAL” Mode when focusing manually is absent in either the X-T10 or X-E2.

Eye Relief

Eye-glass wearers take note, the eye point of the X-T10 is shorter enough that the other two bodies that it should probably be part of your purchasing decision. If diopter correction isn’t enough, you’ll likely find yourself jamming your glasses against your face more with the X-T10.

Conclusion

Had it not been for the leaks, I think the X-T10 would have come as a surprise to most people. It certainly did to me. Most had been expecting the X-Pro2 (which has since been announced and released), followed perhaps by an X-E3, and the X100F/X200. Instead, we got another new camera. The question was whether or not the market wasn’t already adequately served by what Fuji had to offer. If my readership is anything to go by, the X-T10 is in the running for a lot of people.

The one area I think the X-T10 serves better than any other is the “transition” from point and shoot/full auto or smartphone, to taking control of the camera and bending it to your will. Scene Recognition Auto Mode will be a boon to those who just want to get a nice shot fast. And when they’re ready, flicking a switch will give them the potential of full manual control.

Who Should Get One?

In some ways, the answer to this is simple, in the same way it was when the X-T1 came out; do you need a camera that can stand up to the elements? Do you need the most performance from a Fuji camera possible? Then get an X-T1. If you don’t you can now save a bunch of cash by stepping down to either the X-T10, or X-E2 where the choice is a little tougher.

In my original conclusion to this comparison, I posited that the X-E2 was at or very close to end of life as it relates to Kaizen. Turns out it was the latter. There was a bit of a delay, but all that fancy new Zone and Wide/Tracking autofocus capabilities of the X-T10 has filtered down to almost every camera Fuji sells new (as I glare at my X100T).

Now the choice effectively comes down to body style preference and handling. DSLR-style with a tilt screen or rangefinder-style without. I personally prefer the X-E2 for the kind of shooting I’d use it for, but then I’m fortunate in having Murillo cameras at my disposal. For the single camera person, or even family, the tilt screen and SR Auto mode for when you hand your camera over to your less photographically-mind significant other could easily be enough to push you towards towards the X-T10.

The Budding Photographer

Another group of people this camera is perfect for are those who are more interested in photography, but haven’t yet mastered, or simply aren’t interested in the technical side of things. My wife is a perfect candidate. Each year we go on vacation, she always wants her own camera, but it’s like starting over with apertures, shutter speeds and ISOs. She would have no problem setting the X-T10 to Auto to begin with and dipping her toes into manual settings as she re-familiarizes herself with photography. It’s just not something she’s keen enough on to commit to memory.

[Compact Prime Kit Owners]

The X-T10 has joined the X-E2 as one of my recommended bodies for the Compact Prime Kit. For the Fuji shooter looking to go as small as possible, these are the bodies to do it with.

The Backup Camera

And finally, for the X-T1 owner looking for a more affordable backup, the X-T10 is the camera to get. Handling and Performance are similar enough that you won’t be fumbling with either camera as you switch back and forth, with the possible exception of digging into menus to adjust your ISO.
If it seems like that’s a lot of different use-cases, it is. It’s tough to not recommend just about every at least having a look at the X-T10.