The ONA Bowery vs. The Billingham Hadley Small

ONA Bowery Billingham Hadley Small.jpg

For a change of pace from my usual “versus” articles, I finally got around to writing up my thoughts and comparisons of these two highly sought after bags. One is from ONA and the other, Billingham. Both bags are fantastic, but which bag comes out on top? Read on to find out.

The ONA Bowery vs. The Billingham Hadley Small

The X-T1 is ready

There were a couple of issues that plagued the release of the X-T1. The first that most already know about, was the light leak. The second, slightly less well know is this, the directional pad of buttons (or D-pad) used for menu selection was mushy, somewhat unresponsive, and quite unsatisfying to use.

I want to state early in this post that for any of you who have been reading my thoughts and comparisons of the X-T1, and are concerned about the crummy buttons, you can now safely buy a new X-T1 that has a much better D-pad than those found on the pre-production units, and the the initial run of manufacturing.1 If you’re buying from a store, you can easily tell if you’ve got a good one through the plastic baggy that the camera ships in, so if the dealer is reluctant to crack the Fujifilm sticker-seal, it’s no problem. Just test the buttons through the bag. If the buttons click like this, you’re good. As we know the light leak issue has also been addressed, and clicky buttons also seem to indicate light tightness.

Taking responsibility

Fujifilm came forward pretty quick, acknowledged the light leak, and offered a fix for owners with afflicted cameras. With the D-pad, they have been pretty tight-lipped about the problem. I can only surmise this is because the earliest D-pads, while crappy, do technically work. They’ve also been somewhat cagey about whether or not rumours about X-T1’s going in for service for the light leak, and coming back with a better D-pad are true.2 I’ve heard from at least two other owners that cameras sent in for light leak repair—with the D-pad noted on the bill of service—have come back with the D-pad marked as having “no fault.” This was also my experience. Again, while technically true as the buttons can be considered as not having “fault,” and work as originally designed, the fact remains that manufacturing has been quietly adjusted. X-T1’s are hitting the streets in high quantity with substantially better buttons on their back sides. This isn’t luck of the draw.

The bad news

Unfortunately some early adopters are being left out in the cold. I actually went to the extreme of selling my launch X-T1 privately,3 and buying another. For many, this won’t be worth the loss on the retail price, but it was for me. I can now use my X-T1 without mild feelings of contempt.

The good news

A silent tweak to manufacturing is better than no tweak at all, and that tweak means my biggest, and really only major gripe about the X-T1’s handling has now been addressed.

For those of you still waiting to place your order, now is the time. The more time I spend with this camera, the more I like it, and the more I feel it is the interchangeable Fuji body to own. I’m about to download and install the X-E2 firmware, but I’m confident the X-T1 will still be my primary body, rain or shine.

Fortunately, Fujifilm don’t have a history of releasing X-Series camera bodies with manufacturing issues like these. I don’t think we’re in a “wait and see” position when Fuji release their next camera (yet), but I’m hoping to see better QA with their next release.

  1. I’m not positive, but serial numbers of cameras with the poor D-pad seem to approximately coincide with up to and including the light leak range of serial numbers. Possibly a little beyond. For instance, my X-T1 that suffered both issues was had a starting serial number of 41A05. My new X-T1 is 41A09. My undestanding is ≥41A06 have no light leak.
  2. The official response I got was “Our technicians check all aspects of the camera.”
  3. For the record, I noted in my listing that it was a launch unit with a poor D-pad. Fortunately I was at least able to say it had no light leak.

FUJINON XF 14mm f/2.8 Review Posted

My review of the XF 14mm F2.8 has been posted. I intend to keep my individual lens reviews about making images, and less about pixel peeping. They’ll includes real world samples to help give an idea of the kinds of images that can be made with the lens.

This is not to suggest my images are of outstanding quality. Some I’m pretty proud of, while others are included to illustrate the diverse capabilities of the lens.

The 14mm f/2.8 is a fantastic lens. Find out of it’s the wide-angle lens for you in my review.

Cable Releases

A few months ago I purchased three different cable releases from B&H, the Gepe GE2020 Cloth Covered Cable Release w/Disc-Lock 20", the Nikon AR-3 Threaded Cable Release, and the Pentax PECR50 Cable Release 50. I had intended to write up a comparison of the three releases, but it’s been on the back burner for the last little while. However, yesterday this happened:

 Gepe GE2020 Cloth Covered Cable Release w/Disc-Lock 20"

 Gepe GE2020 Cloth Covered Cable Release w/Disc-Lock 20"

That’s the Gepe GE2020. The entire plunging mechanism decided to liberate itself from the rest of the cable, and it doesn’t simply just pop back on as far as I can tell. This release has hardly seen any use—I’ve only had it for a few months—and it’s never even left the comfort of my warm home.

Because of the malfunction, the Gepe GE2020 gets my lowest rating of the three by default. Coincidentally, it would have been the release I recommended least anyhow. It’s plunger is significantly smaller than the Nikon and the Pentax, and the plunging action is actually noticeably rougher than the others.

The larger plunger on the Pentax PECR50

The larger plunger on the Pentax PECR50

The Pentax and the Nikon are both fantastic. I’m pretty sure they’re just rebranded as they are identical with the exception being the Pentax is 20 inches and the Nikon, just 12 inches. I prefer the extra length of the Pentax, but I keep the Nikon in my Billingham because it’s shorter.

The Pentax PECR50 and the Nikon AR-3 are identical aside from length

The Pentax PECR50 and the Nikon AR-3 are identical aside from length

So there you have it, between the three, I can recommend either Pentax or the Nikon. Decide which length is better for you. I recommend against the Gepe entirely. Not only is it lacking in the durability department, it wasn’t as nice to use either. The Pentax and the Nikon have significantly smoother operation. There are plenty of other options out there, but either the Nikon AR-3 Threaded Cable Release, and the Pentax PECR50 Cable Release 50 suit me fine.

Fujifilm X-T1 Review

After over a week of use, a couple thousand frames, and well over 5,000 words, my Fujifilm X-T1 review has finally been posted. This is certainly my most comprehensive review to date, and I think one of the more comprehensive reviews to hit the web so far.

I dived deep into the nitty gritty of the camera, how it compares to Fuji’s other offerings, other mirrorless offerings and beyond.

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